The curry framework: how to make any curry

Almost every curry, from a chickpea masala to a chicken korma-style dish or a pot of dal, follows the same structure. Learn the order of steps and you can cook one from whatever is in the fridge.

The template

• 1. Heat oil or ghee over medium heat. Optional: add whole spices such as cumin seeds or bay leaves and let them sizzle for a few seconds until fragrant. This is called tempering, or tadka.
• 2. Add finely chopped onion with a pinch of salt and cook until soft and golden. Deeper brown onions give a richer, sweeter sauce.
• 3. Add garlic and ginger (chopped, grated or as a paste) and fry until the raw garlic smell fades.
• 4. Add ground spices (for example cumin, coriander, turmeric, chilli) and cook for about a minute. Add a splash of water if they start to stick, so they cook into a paste rather than burn.
• 5. Add tomatoes (tinned, fresh or puree) and cook until thick and jammy.
• 6. Add liquid and the main ingredient, then the vegetables in order of cooking time. Simmer until everything is tender.
• 7. Finish off the heat: a pinch of garam masala, a squeeze of lemon or lime, fresh coriander, and yoghurt stirred in gently if you are using it.

Swap it

• Proteins and their simmer times: tinned chickpeas or beans about 15 minutes; red lentils about 20 minutes until completely soft; chicken thigh pieces 25 to 30 minutes; diced lamb shoulder about 1 hour 30 minutes, covered on low heat; prawns only 2 to 4 minutes at the very end.
• Chicken breast cooks faster and dries out more easily than thigh. Cut it smaller and check the thickest piece: no pink, juices clear.
• Vegetables by cooking time: potatoes, sweet potato and squash in 2 to 3 cm cubes go in first; cauliflower, broccoli, peppers, aubergine and courgette next; peas and spinach go in for the last few minutes.
• Liquids: water or stock for a lighter curry; coconut milk for a rich, mild one; yoghurt or laban for a tangy one (stir it in off the heat so it does not split).
• Spices: swap curry powder for your own mix, add mustard seeds or curry leaves for a South Indian feel, or use baharat and dried lime for a Gulf-style stew.
• Fat: vegetable oil, ghee, butter or coconut oil all work.

Worked example: chickpea and spinach curry (serves 3 to 4)

• Ingredients: 2 tbsp oil, 1 tsp cumin seeds, 1 large onion (diced), 3 garlic cloves and a 3 cm piece of ginger (grated), 1 tsp ground cumin, 1 tsp ground coriander, half a tsp turmeric, half to 1 tsp chilli powder, 1 tin (400 g) chopped tomatoes, 2 tins (400 g each) chickpeas (drained), 150 ml water, 2 large handfuls (about 100 g) spinach, 100 ml plain yoghurt, half a tsp garam masala, half a lemon, salt, fresh coriander.
• Heat the oil, add the cumin seeds and let them sizzle for about 15 seconds. Add the onion with a pinch of salt and cook for 8 to 10 minutes until soft and golden.
• Add the garlic and ginger and cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the ground spices for 1 minute, adding a splash of water if they stick.
• Add the tomatoes and cook for about 5 minutes until thickened. Add the chickpeas and water, and simmer for 15 minutes.
• Add the spinach and stir until wilted. Take the pan off the heat, stir in the yoghurt gently, then the garam masala and lemon juice. Taste, add salt, and top with coriander. Serve with rice or flatbread.

Three variations on the same template

• Chicken: brown 500 g boneless chicken thigh pieces after the spices, add the tomatoes and 300 ml water, and simmer uncovered for 25 to 30 minutes until cooked through. Add potatoes at the same time if you like.
• Red lentil dal: simmer 1 cup (about 200 g) rinsed red lentils in about 1 litre of water with turmeric and grated ginger for about 20 minutes until soft, then whisk smooth. Separately fry cumin seeds, garlic, onion and tomatoes in ghee or oil (the tadka) and stir it in. Finish with coriander and lime.
• Mixed vegetables: use 600 to 700 g of vegetables, adding hard ones first. Use coconut milk as the liquid and simmer about 15 minutes until the hardest pieces are tender. Add spinach and lime juice at the end.

Fixes and tips

• Too spicy: stir in yoghurt, coconut milk or a little butter or ghee; add more chickpeas, vegetables or liquid to dilute the heat; add a small amount of sugar, honey or lemon; serve with plain rice or bread.
• Too salty: dilute with water or unsalted stock and add more of the main ingredient. A squeeze of acid such as lemon can also soften the salty edge.
• Too thin: simmer uncovered for a few more minutes, or mash a few chickpeas or lentils into the sauce.
• Too thick: add water or stock a splash at a time.
• Tastes flat or 'raw': it usually needs salt, acid (lemon or lime) or more cooking of the onion and spice base before the liquid goes in.
• Yoghurt split into grains: it was boiled too hard. Next time, take the pan off the heat before stirring it in.